4/20/14-4/22/14: Easter Sunday 2014: Carrabelle to Anclote Key: 140 NM

My route to Anclote Key

All the GRIBs were showing Easter Sunday to be a fine day to sail south from Carrabelle Florida to Anclote Key, a 140 mile trip.  I have enjoyed my layover in Carrabelle,  but it was time to move on.  The weather people predicted east winds at 10 to 13 knots with seas 2-3 feet.  That would be perfect to push the old Rasmus on down to Anclote Key.  At least 6 other sailors had decided to leave either Sunday or Monday.  I motored out of the Carrabelle River around 7:30 am on Easter Sunday and raised my sails in St. George Bay.  There were two other sailors following me out.  The previous two times across this stretch of water I motored and motor sailed.  This time I wanted to sail the entire leg.  As soon as I moved out into the gulf, I noticed the winds were I bit more lively than I or the weather folk had expected.  I soon put a double reef in the main and reefed down the genoa and I was still making 5 1/2 to 7 knots, which is pretty good for the Rasmus.  The wind and waves were square on my beam and the were steep 4 ft. chop, which made a pretty uncomfortable ride.  But I was making good speed with sails alone and who can complain with that.  The first day out stayed about the same as described except for a bit of increase in wind speed and wave height.  The winds changed in direction enough to keep me very busy with sail trim and wind vane adjustment.  I was feeling fatigued by dusk.

Conditions were energetic from start to finish

The night brought even stronger conditions and very cold air.  It was starting to get miserable.  I was still working hard with sail trim and wind vane adjustment.  About my wind vane self steer system.  I have a Capehorn made self steer wind vane.  It is very sensitive to even the slightest adjustment to the vane, which rotates by means of two lines running from it to the cockpit.  The two lines are cleated off on opposite sides of the cockpit, so in adjusting them, I have to lean and reach about five feet, which after time can really increase fatigue.  I don't like it.  So after spending the night jogging around the cockpit adjusting the wind vane, I was determined to set up a better system.  I ran one line through a snatch block and secured the block to one side of the cockpit.   This system allows me to adjust the vane without reaching and leaning to one side of the cockpit to the other.  I can simply rotate the block pulley as I sit in my comfy spot.

This is my new wind vane adjustment block.  Just turn the pulley, that's it.

The old system had cleats on each side of the cockpit 5 ft. apart.  After time this is fatiguing.

Back to that miserable night of sailing.  As I said, the weather became cold, really cold.  I also acquired a rare case of sea sickness.  The weather had strengthened through the night.  The waves were now averaging 5-6 feet beam on with several eight footers that placed all items on the port shelves on the floor.  I started to shiver around midnight and was worried about hyperthermia.  I already had all my clothes on plus rain gear and chest waders.  I was still very cold.  So I pulled out my survival suit, a very thick neoprene suit made for very cold water exposure, and put it on and then climbed into a sleeping bag.  That stopped the shivering but I still could not get warm.  I felt like I was sailing the north atlantic, not Florida in April.  I thought about heaving to but what would that accomplish.  I wasn't in a survival situation and I couldn't sleep because of my nausea.  So I kept the boat moving in the right direction and hoped for a break in conditions.

Stong conditions for first 20 hours of crossing

I had all this gear on to try and stay warm: rain gear, chest waders, survival suit and sleeping bag.

I ate two boxes of Gin Gins to keep the contents in my stomach in my stomach

They came at 6 am the next morning.  I was nearing the coast and the waves reduced in size and the wind decreased.  Around 7 am  I stopped sailing and started up the motor and motored on in to Anclote Key.  I dropped anchor around noon just off of Dutchman Key and passed out for a 4 hour nap.  I was exposed to the east winds but by dusk the winds has switched to westerly and everything became calm and peaceful.  What a great nights sleep.  I woke up to glassy waters and a beautiful day to go kayaking and beach combing.  Ahhh…this is why I endure discomfort in a small boat.  I spent two wonderful nights there before heading off to Tarpon Springs.

Anclote Key Anchorage

Beautiful sunrise after a great nights sleep

Favorite anchorage for these locals

Recovered after a great nights sleep, I had a good day on the water

A classic wooden ship at its final resting place

A last look at Carrabelle and an Easter sail across the Gulf

Things on the boat have gone well. I have fixed everything that wasn't working: dinghy motor, Garmin GPS navigator, AIS transponder, deck leaks, rigging tension, radar installation,…organized the entire boat: pantry, books, charts, tools, lines, bedding, deck, and grocery shopped.  I haven't had time to eat much, too busy.  Even though all has gone well, I haven't set sail.  That will start early Easter morning.  Ten other sailors and I are headed out in what looks to be fair winds for sailing south.  Please let there be fair winds and SUN.  It has been cold and rainy for three days here, good for working in but bad for the soul. 

My barometer says it all.  Northwest Florida has been invaded by a stubborn low pressure system that has turned it into the Unsunshine State.

We all have about a 145 mile crossing that will start in the morning, take us through the day and night, and into the next day.  It is so exciting.  This feeling now, the anticipation of sailing offshore out of sight of land and into the night, is the reason I and others put up with the difficulties of living on a small boat, I think.  It really is a rush.

Photos of Carrabelle

After all the chores were done and I was satisfied that the boat is ready for the crossing, I paddled up the Carrabelle River in my kayak talking to the sailors anchored out on their boats.  They were all getting ready for the trip. Katy and Ric were sailing Enigma, a Morgan 36.  She was a beauty, restored to her original luster.  Bob and Kathy were in Thar Be Dragons, an Islander 36.  

I hop off the kayak and do a short walk through town.  Its a humble little town with fish blood running in its veins.  Folks work hard here and play hard.  It's been a booming town in years past with logging as a major industry.  Its been smacked down by hurricanes and brought back by the sponge industry,commercial and recreational fishing.  Its a quiet anchorage that enables one to just rest.  I like Carrabelle

Homemade chili is simmering on the stove and anticipation builds as I wait for morning.  I doubt I get much sleep tonight.  I ask Big Dave (my dad) to ask Poseidon to have mercy.  He replies:

"To appease Poseidon I think you have to throw some shrimp overboard and sing the Naval Academy hymn. 

Eternal Father, Strong to save,

Whose arm hath bound the restless wave,

Who bid'st the mighty Ocean deep

Its own appointed limits keep;

O hear us when we cry to thee,

for those in peril on the sea.

O Christ! Whose voice the waters heard
And hushed their raging at Thy word,
Who walked'st on the foaming deep,
and calm amidst its rage didst sleep;
Oh hear us when we cry to Thee
For those in peril on the sea!

Most Holy spirit! Who didst brood
Upon the chaos dark and rude,
And bid its angry tumult cease,
And give, for wild confusion, peace;
Oh, hear us when we cry to Thee
For those in peril on the sea!

O Trinity of love and power!
Our brethren shield in danger's hour;
From rock and tempest, fire and foe,
Protect them wheresoe'er they go;
Thus evermore shall rise to Thee,

Glad hymns of praise from land and sea. " 

Thanks Dad. I be singing.

Nothing But Rain

Carrabelle couldn't get any wetter.  It rained all night and all day and it's still raining.  So besides taking a short run in the rain to stretch the legs and a quick motor out on the bay to check some engine work I had done, I searched the boat for leaks and found some unfortunately.  Rainwater entering the deck not river water entering the hull.  So I took care of a couple before dinner.  I will get the rest tomorrow, that is, if I don't head south.  The weather is changing in favor of the sailors wanting to go south.  The winds are predicted to shift from east, southeast to west on Saturday and then north on Sunday and Monday.  It should be nice easy sailing for the 8 or so boats lined up to go on Sunday. The bold will leave Saturday, stronger winds and bigger seas.  I don't know if I'm quite up to it.  I am still not fully engaged, but we will see.

GRIB files are Gridded Binary files used in meteorology to store weather data for use in forecasting. There are programs available that will enable the user to view these files on computer, iPhone, or iPad that greatly enhance forecasting for sailors.  I have learned to obey the laws of GRIB after getting my rear kicked after yelling, "Damn the GRIBS, full steam ahead".  Below is a screenshot of just how one component of weather, wind, is presented at one specific time.  The user can scroll through the hours of the day and days of the week and watch changes as predicted.  They are extremely useful and add to the confidence of a passage.

The program above is called GRIBview and it is the free version that is downloadable here:
GRIBview

The little arrows show wind direction and strength.  The tail can have a barb with each barb representing ten knots of wind.  The arrows above have one barb so the winds will be light at ten knots and in the right direction coming from the north.  There is also shades of color that show the distribution of wind strength.  These winds are a little too light for my sailboat, that is why I am contemplating leaving on Saturday which is suppose to be twenty knots plus..  My boat likes 15 to 20 knots to get it moving.  Anyway, enough of the lesson.

Rain and Hard Times in Carrabelle

Most sailors use Carrabelle as a jumping off point heading south across the Gulf. The usual landfall is Anclote Key, a 145 mile leg that eventually carries you 40 miles offshore.  It can get uncomfortable out there, as I can attest, so Carrabelle is the place to stop, relax, and wait for fair winds.  Anchoring in the Carrabelle River is nice and comfortable with a grocery store right across the street from the river.

But today it rains with 4 inches more on the way.  I spent the morning and most of the afternoon getting ready for it, meaning clearing the decks, putting up the dinghy and kayak, cleaning the cabin, and grocery shopping.  Along the way I stopped and ate 1 pound of spicy boiled shrimp at the Fisherman's Wife's Restaurant.  Pam is the wife and owner.  She was not around but her shrimp fishing husband came in for a few minutes and talked about the rain.  He looked like a fisherman, tall and lean with tough sun beaten skin.  Just think the Marlboro man.  My waitress was nice and she gave me a little of the history of Carrabelle.  Her father was an oysterman at one time but switched over to shrimp.  Why?  The oyster were getting hard to come by in the bay. I suspect a combination of over fishing and environmental factors.  She said the remaining oystermen have left town for better waters down south.  The town is getting smaller and the shops are slowly closing their doors.  It is strange.  I like the town and it has a beautiful waterfront.  Why is this town drying up?  And then there's Apalachicola  just down the road, a thriving community with basically the same God given beauty and resources, taunting Carrabelle with it's success.

The waitress graduated from Carrabelle High School with 62 classmates.  She started high school there with 130 9th grade classmates.  Did the families move away?  No.  They dropped out.  Why?  They consolidated the schools and folks didn't like it.  What didn't they like?  The schools were rivals and there were fights everyday.  The students dropped out because they disliked each other.  But my kind waitress finished high school and was taking a year off before college.  Her dad said she would never go to college if she did that.  He was right.  She got pregnant that summer and is caring for an 18 month daughter.

She ended saying she thinks Carrabelle will be like Apalachicola one day soon.  I agree with her.

Back on the Water

After 6 months of Mary Annie on the hard and three weeks work on her, we are back on the water.  I am now anchored out on the Carrabelle River waiting for fair weather to cross the Gulf to Anclote Keys or if the weather cooperates I may stop over at Crystal River prior.  Cold fronts are still passing through with a real chill the last couple of nights.  It was nice sleeping under blankets in comfort without perspiring.  I have been eating a lot of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, too busy getting things in order to cook a real meal.  Out on the deck last night I watched a magical moon rise over the Carrabelle River.

Full moon rises over Carrabelle Florida

Gulf Coast Waypoints and Cruising Notes

In a previous post I added a link to waypoints I have collected over the last year.  You are welcome to download the waypoint gpx file located there.  I also thought I would put down a few charts of areas I have cruised with notes attached.  Below are charts of the the Gulf Coast with my waypoints and notes.

Overview of Gulf Coast Waypoints

Cat Island to Dauphin Island

It is challenging to find protected anchorage on the gulf coast barrier islands unless there is a south wind.  As noted above, there are a couple of anchorages that are fairly protected from an east wind.  A west and north wind is problematic.  If the wind is blowing from the north, I have found that anchoring in the lee of the mainland is the best option or you could motor up the Biloxi River.  There is current running through the cuts of the islands and I don't anchor in them.

Dauphin Island to Perdido

Perdido to Ft. Walton

Be careful with the bridge clearance at Ft. Walton and Destin.  They are two of the lower fixed bridges on the GIWW at 49 feet.  But locals say to not try it if you are 47+  feet above the water.

Destin Harbor

Let me add to the note above about East Pass. The coast guard help came at night in tough conditions when I was experiencing severe sleep deprivation.  When I left through this pass during calm weather and rested, it was fine and no trouble to navigate.  The Destin harbor entry is a bit tricky in any weather but if you go slow and easy it shouldn't be a problem with a moderate draft.  I carry 4.2 feet draft.  If you are heading on to the bay through North Channel, be careful at the bridge here.  It is lower than most of the fixed GIWW bridges at 49 ft. vertical clearance.  

Destin to Panama City

The GIWW from Panama City to Apalachicola is interesting.  I didn't run into any problems on this stretch.  Then only nerve wracking section is through Lake Wimco where the channel is fairly narrow and the nav markers far apart.  It shallows very quickly out of the channel here.  But the scenery of cypress trees,spanish moss, and bayous is nice.

Panama City to Carrabelle

Appalachicola

Waypoints of the Gulf Coast, East Coast, and Bahamas

Coverage area of waypoints

I have collected over 600 waypoints of designated anchorages, discovered anchorages, hurricane holes, navigational hazards, and general route generating points.  The area covered is from the coast of Mississippi starting at Cat Island eastward to Florida, parts of the Bahamas(Cat, New Providence, Exumas, Berry Islands, and Grand Bahama Island), up the East Coast to Maine.

If you would like to download these waypoints, go to the link below and read the instructions on how to download.  This web page is my personal site.  Use these waypoints at your own risk.

Waypoints

Overview of Gulf Coast and Florida Waypoints

Waypoints42014